Forgoing snow for granite

The alarm blared at an ungodly, way-too-early hour. It was still dark, the room outside of the blankets was cold. Trudging upstairs I forwent the brimful coffee pot waiting and checked the weather at my intended destination. The results were not kind: wind gusts of 32 mph and a wind chill in the single digits. The wind would not let up on Sunday, that I knew. Combine the lack of sleep with the chill in the air, my motivation was wavering. With a yawn, I acquiesced my non-alpine fate.

A few hours later I was simmering. It was beautiful outside. Despite knowing I probably made the right decision, I still couldn't help but stew over the fact I was sitting in my place with a cup of coffee as opposed to cramponing up a couloir off of Mayflower Gulch. The last few years have been the nadir of my alpinism career. I can count the times I've used an ice ax on one hand. The mountains are where I feel alive. I needed to vent before the frustration pullulated inside of me, becoming something festering.

Off to my home away from home. Earbuds in, I breezed past the crowds of families celebrating Mother's Day outside. There were a few problems I reconnoitered previously but whose granite I had not tasted.

This does not go!



And not for a lack of trying. I was amazed I was able to even mount the rock before, let alone pull a move. It is nearly void of features, and those minute incuts and nubs which were there, were friable at best.

This does go three different ways


The fun-looking way is the over-hanging arete on the left. A sit-down start to a desperate grab to a giant bulge. After that yard up, heel-hook, reach up to a sloping knob and mount the bulbous growth without causing damage to your crotch! V3, though it might be a bit tougher now. A right-side foothold broke off on my third climb, causing a slight bruise on my right ankle as the chunk of rock banged into my bone.

The right-side of the face goes at the same grade. The left-side is a little tougher. It also required a number of attempts to get the sequence and body-positioning down. With some more traffic, this will be a great boulder and should open up at least two more problems. It does get heady bouldering by yourself, 15 feet up and not knowing if the flexing little nub your foot is on is going to blow.....

Because that did happen on a different climb. My left foot shot down as gravity tugged down hard at me. Instead of surrendering to an awkward fall sans crashpad, I clutched down with my right leg and squeezed in. The result was my still staying on the boulder but also my right quad acquiring a spasm which I have not felt in some time.

Four hours with sunshine, biting granite and pine needles was a good alternative. Heck Monday I made a visit to O'Fallon Park to get some more problems in. I rediscovered my lost boulder, successfully cranked three problems on it. Though my energy began ebbing and I called it a day after two hours. I scouted the surrounding hillside for some unearthed mound waiting for the pattering touch of chalked fingers, though I was without luck.

ARTIST OF POST - Lex Lane. Very soulful.

The other way is the face on the left-hand side